When you have had your fill of singing and dancing, chocolate and marzipan, apples pastries and dumplings, it might be of interest to see and taste some of the other things that Salzburg has to offer. Some of these come from a longing to find things like home, some of them come from locals’ tip-offs, some of them are just because I found it and it was lovely.
My go-to was always Favorite Kammer on Linzergasse but now they have no toilet facilities which is a bit rude. So the current favourite is 220 Grad at Chiemseegasse 5. You won’t be disappointed there. If you need to do some work on the road, go to Coffee Press on Bergstraße 10: it’s a cafe attached to a private American university so you’ll find plenty of company for your laptop there- and free wifi, of course!
Time for a walk?
I love a walk or run up and around Kapuzinerberg. I use the trail on the east side of the hill (the Doplerweg) which hops its way up steps to reach Franziski Schloss at the top. From there, you can choose a roundabout way or a direct way down to the Kapuziner monastery. Follow the trail down the old fortification walls to enjoy the old towers and views towards the fortress.
Further out of the city, try exploring Hellbrunn. Of course there is the Schloss there, built by Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, a Prince-Archbishop with a sense of humour, but there is also a huge public park with a central water feature which is very child and pram friendly. I like wandering up the hill to the “Little Month Castle” and down via the Steintheater (Rock Theatre), a former quarry transformed by Markus Sittikus into a theatre which hosted the first opera outside of Italy.
Best Chinese/pan-Asian shop
There is a large, good Asian store on Mirabellplatz but my friend pointed me around the corner to Cheung Kwok Man (Faberstrasse 2). I’m not sure if it’s owned by the same people who run the sleek Global Blue Tax Free shop targeting the Chinese tourist market next door but, if it is, they have a split personality. In contrast to the glowing white, this place is gloomy and rammed to the roof with goodies. This glorious shop is all you could imagine: cheap noodles, curry pastes, huge chest freezers of frozen fish, vats of coconut milk, bean sprouts and pak choi by the handfuls, 5 litre bottles of soy and oyster sauce…
Best Turkish/Middle Eastern shop
A Turkish friend tipped me to Kavak Gesellschaft (Bayerhamerstrasse 22). Goodness, what a complex! This supermarket has a butchery and a bakery attached (complete with simits). The butchery is exceptionally good and the bakery provided me with a spinach stuffed pastry that has me out digesting on the couch as I write this. I wandered around the shop in a state of awe. It held aspirational ingredients for me; I would love to know how to treat an aubergine as it deserves. I left with sumac and zatar (this is definitely a place to find cheap spices), pomegranate dressing, fig jam, coffee and my own body weight in falafel.
Best Book Shop
Do you know that feeling when you meet someone for the first time and you are sure that you’ll be friends? That’s what I feel like about Bucher Stierle, behind Neue Residence (Kaigasse 1). All wooden pallets, signs about “Indie books” and friendly staff who coped with my poor German. I admire the lack of English language books in such a tourist trap location. What is of particular use is their stock of maps: both Kompass and WK series (I’ll let you know my favourite once I’ve had time to evaluate, there’ll probably be another post about that). All that is missing is a little coffee booth and a few chairs.